The word prototype originally comes from the Latin word proto (original) and types (model).

Rapid prototype means the speedy way to create a full-scale original model, a sample on which to base future designs.

Why rapid prototyping?

Would you buy a car without test driving it? Would you rather know if the product is going to fail soon or later?

Rapid prototyping helps validates the soon to be a product without having to build the actual product. Keith Richards, a UK’s Agile experts, once said, “If you are going to fail, fail fast.”

Last June, I’ve had an opportunity to take on a consulting role as a Lead UX/UI Designer at Verifone, an American multinational corporation headquartered in San Jose, California, that provides technology for electronic payment transactions and value-added services at the point-of-sale.

One of my projects, a new feature was introduced to the product team. The feature was based entirely on the end-users’ connectivities. We gathered all user inputs, bug reports, connectivity statistics. Our team went through some intense brainstorming sessions with many key stakeholders; product manager, director of product, engineers, and myself (a Lead UX/UI Designer). Within a few weeks, we were able to narrow down our obvious problems with immediate solutions. Throughout the UX design process, I found myself producing many rapid wireframe prototypes which helped the team nailed down the final design and workflow. The end result was very rewarding.

The process of rapid prototyping

One thing to remember, there is no One–Size–Fits–All Solution for every design problem. A good designer should always find the way to incorporate the core design principal into his/her design process.

The three-step process of iterations.

1. Prototype
   Interpret the users’ solution into a series of low-fi wireframes and mock-ups. In this state, the prototype should only have enough details to get the point across.
2. Review
   Put the prototype in front of the users and evaluate it. Observe and document the users’ natural behavior.
3. Refine
   Identify and clarify the problems, based on the users’ feedback. If necessary, repeat the steps over again.

A few benefits of rapid prototyping

• Serves as a safety net in a design.
• Sees positive reactions from the real users.
• Helps verify the problems and validate the solutions.
• Testing ideas without building them are much cheaper and more effective.
• Produces real-world data that can help designers, developers, and stakeholders to gain more confidence.

The conclusion

You will be surprised by how much time and money you ended up saving down the road by investing in prototyping early on in the design process. Rapid prototyping can help your team on the right path to victory.

If you would like to learn more about UX design, please visit my previous post, UX Design – Why Does It Matter?

Happy designing.

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In the previous post, I briefly talked about a UX design process. Keep in mind that not every design project will use the exact same process. I like to think of a UX design process as a guideline, not as being set in stone. Different organizations usually have their own favorite UX design process. My personal favorite is “Google Design Sprint.“

UX Design Process focuses on solving a user problem

In the past 5 years, Google has helped me grow tremendously both in person and as a designer. In 2013, I joined Google as a Sr. Interactive Designer to lead a small design team. Later in 2016, I transitioned to take on a new role as a UX Product Technology Manager. Both roles had taught me that “there is no one-size-fits-all solution in design.” Every problem has its own agenda but they all normally share the same design principal… to “focus on solving a user problem.“

What is Design Sprint?

According to designsprintkit.withgoogle.com…

A design sprint is a five-phase framework that helps answer critical business questions through rapid prototyping and user testing. Sprints let your team reach clearly defined goals and deliverables and gain key learnings, quickly. The process helps spark innovation, encourage user-centered thinking, align your team under a shared vision, and get you to product launch faster.

A design sprint divided into five suggested steps; Understanding, Sketch, Decide, Prototype, and Validate. Keep in mind that not all steps would necessarily be used at the same time. It will depend on what design problem you are facing. The timeframe to complete a Design Sprint varies from project to project. The general time frame is five working days, essentially one step per day. However, I’ve seen a Design Sprint completed within one or two days. The goal is to pinpoint things that need to be focused on. This is to help get things moving forward quickly without launching an actual product.

The Five Steps

1. Understanding
I personally call it, a gathering stage. This is a time that everyone gathers together. Everyone gives their input from a different angle. The goal is to help each other map out the problems and share the ideas.

2. Sketch
No sketch is a bad sketch. This is probably my favorite step. Everyone draws something in the given time frame. Later, this general range of ideas will be narrowed down and put into a select category.

3. Decide
It’s a lockdown time! The team will choose which idea to be prototyped. What I like to do is to narrow the ideas down to the three best ideas then pick the best one to be prototyped.

4. Prototype
In this step, we will build a prototype that only matters from what we selected in step #4. The prototype should only be to validate the idea and should be built within the short period of time. This means don’t focus too much time on details, but rather focusing on the steps to get a user from point A to point B.

5. Validate
A fancy word for testing. This is a moment of truth step! We put the prototype in front of users. We observe the users’ reactions, collect feedback and then make an adjustment based on their inputs. If the idea fails, then start over again.

Why should you use a Design Sprint?

Here are a few benefits of using a Design Sprint as a part of your UX design process.

• Can be used at any time.
• Helps bring everyone together.
• Excellent way to validate the best idea.
• Gets a real-time feedback without launching a real product.
• Fails fast so you can recover quickly.
• Solves design problems in a short amount of time.
• and many more…

To learn more about design sprint, visit designsprintkit.withgoogle.com. I hope that you will give it a try on your next design project. If you are new to UX Design, please visit my previous post, UX Design – Why does it matter?

Happy designing,

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What is UX?

Here’s the definition of User Experience according to Wikipedia.

“the process of enhancing user satisfaction by improving the usability, accessibility, and pleasure provided in the interaction between the user and the product.”

What does a UX designer do?

Most companies focus on their brands first. However, a UX designer focuses first on the users. While a company thinks about how to get more traffic to their sites, a UX designer says, “How does the user spend time on the site? What are they looking for? Is the site easy to navigate? What information is missing?”

A typical UX designer touches many areas of marketing, engineer, research, design, and so on. A UX designer’s goal is to bring all these experiences to a user. Here are some common aspects a UX designer usually focuses on …

Who is the primary target user?
EX: College students? Gamers? Realtors?

How does a user get from point A to point B?
EX: What route did they end up taking?

How long does it take for a user to complete a task?
EX: How many steps to complete a profile setup?

What action did a user end up taking?
EX: Did a user sign up for a newsletter? Did a user click on the ads or purchase a product?

How does UX help the brand?

In order to solve your brand problem, you must first solve your user problem. Think of it this way, a brand without a user is not a brand. At the end of the day, it only matters if your product helps your users accomplish their tasks. Only then your brand will be remembered.

Let’s take a look at a real-life example – Starbucks Coffee

 Why is Starbucks one of the most successful coffee company in the world?

• Original product
  Starbucks coffee tastes nice and smooth because they roast their beans at a higher temperature for a longer period of time. It helps to bring out more of the flavor. (source – Starbucks)
• Satisfy experience
  Starbucks specialty drinks such as Mocha Frappuccino, Pumpkin Spice Latte, and Iced Peach Green Tea Lemonade are so popular that it keeps their customer coming back every day. No one else makes them like they do.
• Trusted brand
  Starbucks’ brand is a trusted brand. You can expect the same experience at any Starbucks. Same great taste coffee, same environment, clean restroom, free WiFi, and so on. This is what customers can count on at every visit.

How does a UX designer help improve user experience?

There are many ways to measure the success of a UX design. It can be time-saving, increasing new customers, increasing volume of a mobile app download, and so on. However, a good UX design should at least improve these three areas.

1. Ease of use
   Is the product simple to use? How easy is your app navigation? How easy is the product checkout process?
2. Easy access
   It should make it easy to access and get information about your product. The actual product label, a website, and a mobile app should all shared the same experience.
3. Satisfaction
   Is your product helpful? Does it make a user happy? Is your product safe? Does a user feel proud to share your product with others?

As you can see, UX design is all about understanding the end users. Without them, your product is meaningless.

I hope that you find this article helpful. Next time, we will take a look more closely at the UX design process.

Happy designing,

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When I was an art student at the Seattle Art Institute, I was introduced to a photography technique called bracketing. I was so intrigued by it that this technique has stayed with me until today.

What is bracketing?

Exposure Bracketing

When to use bracketing?

Why use bracketing?

How to use the bracketing?

Real-life examples.

Digital processing for HDR (High Dynamic Range) photo

Learn how to use your graphic editing software. HDR is a technique that combines all three photos to bring details to both the shadows and highlights.

Conclusion

Bracketing is a very simple and practical method used by most professional photographers. When you hear people talk about bracketing, we all automatically think of exposure bracketing. There are many types of bracketing for you to try such as flash, depth-of-field, focus, and white balance bracketing. The concept is still pretty much the same so go out any try different techniques.  Your camera has lots to offer.

Happy shooting,

The post Beginning Photography – Bracketing appeared first on Midnight Spidy.

1. Don’t spend too much right off the start

Beleive it or not, you can produce very good photos with an inexpensive camera. I’ve seen many great photos that were taken with a camera phone, a point and shoot, or an entry-level DSLR. If you really want to get into the Photography World, then start out with a good inexpensive camera that fits your need. You can always upgrade it to the next step-up when you are ready.

2. Keep your camera close

The best photo often happens when least expected. If you forgot your beloved DSLR, then use your camera phone. Take some shots, take some notes, and then return with your DSLR.

3. Get a tripod

I can’t emphasize the importance of a tripod. One basic skill to learn is to take sharp photos. I remember my photography instructor told me years ago, “If your hands aren’t steady enough, neither is your camera…” Tripods give you many benefits, such as shooting a long exposure, panning, self-timer, and many more.

 4. Understand the Exposure Triangle

To capture a good photo, you must know the exposure triangle. The exposure triangle is the basic relationship between 3 elements: Shutter Speed, Aperture, and ISO. The goal is to get all three elements working together so you get the results you desire. See my previous post for more details.

5. Apply composition

Photography composition is what separates your photos from others. It shows off your point of view, your story, and your style. The composition is not rocket science. It’s a challenge that’s fun to explore. See my other post about basic photography composition for more details.

6. Learn post-processing

Post-processing does not have to be so radical. It can be natural, subtle, and simple. Sometimes all you need is to adjust shadow and highlight. We are living in the digital world now, so nothing wrong with using the available technology to help you improve your photography skill.

7. Your camera is just a tool

If your photo didn’t turn out great, it doesn’t mean that your equipment isn’t good enough. A skilled photographer should be able to produce good photos with a cheap camera. On the other hand, a new beginner, due to lack of experience, might not able to do much with a super expensive camera. I am not saying that the expensive equipment is not important. Most expensive cameras have a bigger sensor, better range of ISO, better lens, and etc.

Last but not lease, experiment and take photos every day

Go out, shoot more photos, and don’t be afraid to experiment.

Concluding 7 tips for beginning photographers

I hope that you find this article helpful. I am sure that there are many different ways to learn. It’s all trial and error, and lots of practice. The most important part of all is don’t forget to have fun!

Happy shooting

Here are sample photos I took with various cameras.

More samples:

Photos were taken with iPhone,
Photos were taken with Panasonic Lumix ZS40
Photos were taken with Canon Rebel T5

PS. You might want to check out these entry-level cameras.

Canon EOS Rebel T6 DSLR Camera Kit
With EF-S 18-55mm IS II Lens, EF 75-300mm III Lens, Polaroid Wide Angle, Telephoto Lens, 64GB and Accessory Bundle

Nikon D3400
With AF-P DX NIKKOR 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR Lens, 32 GB SDHC and Basic Bundle

Pentax K-70 All Weather Wi-Fi Digital SLR Camera
With DA 18-55mm AL WR Lens with 64GB Card + Backpack + Flash + Diffuser + Battery + Tripod + Filters Kit

Panasonic Lumix ZS50 Camera
With 30X LEICA DC Vario-ELMAR Lens, 12.1 Megapixels, High Sensitivity Sensor, Eye Viewfinder, DMC-ZS50S (USA SILVER)

The post Beginning Photography – 7 Simple Tips for Beginner Photographers appeared first on Midnight Spidy.

As a beginner entering the World of photography, picking your camera can be both scary and intimidating.  Eventually, you will have to decide which type of camera, Point and Shoot or DSLR, would be your first to invest in. Most modern Point and Shoot cameras are very good and affordable. The DSLR cameras are a no brainer, but they are not cheap. I think, in order to make the right decision, you must know the differences between these two types of cameras. I personally own both Point and Shoot and DSLR cameras.  I use them in a different situations.

So what camera should you get, Point and Shoot or DSLR camera? Let’s find out together!

Point and Shoot Cameras (P&S)

Point and Shoot cameras does exactly what it says. You point and you shoot! Most P&S cameras have a fixed lens, it means that the lenses are attached to the body of the camera. Most modern P&S cameras nowadays do not have a viewfinder built-in so you will have to look through its LCD screen. P&S cameras do not give you many options for manual control. The smaller size sensor is no match to the DSLR cameras.

DSLR Cameras

A DSLR (Digital Single-Lens Reflex) camera’s body has a mirror that reflects the light coming through the lens. It sends the picture through a prism or a series of mirrors, then off to the optical viewfinder. Once the shutter is pressed, the mirror flips up and reflexes the light directly to the sensor. The DSLR cameras also give you the full control in manual mode.

So what’s the main difference?

Point and Shoot or DSLR camera? You’ve probably heard the term, “What you see is what you get.” The DSLR cameras allow you to see the picture in real-time. The Point and Shoot cameras tend to generate delay because the sensor has to transfer the picture to its digital display instead of the viewfinder.

Point and Shoot Cameras – Pros & Cons

PROS

Weight & Size – Small and lightweight. Easy to take them anywhere.

Fixed Lens – One lens to rule them all. No need to change lenses. The built-in lens can do everything from wide angle, zoom, and macro.

Depth of Field – The Point and Shoot cameras tend to bring both the foreground and background to focus which help the entire image look sharp. This could both be good for the landscape and bad for a portrait.

Price – More affordable and easier to maintain.

CONS

Image Quality – The Point and Shoots have smaller size sensor. Even with more Megapixels, the image quality will always be lower than the DSLR cameras.

Manual Mode – Although most Point and Shoot cameras come with Aperture and Shutter Priority mode, it is still difficult to manually set ISO, shutter speed, and aperture separately.

Upgradability – Most Point and Shoot cameras are not adaptable. Their lens and flash come built-in and cannot be changed (with the exception of some high-end models.)

Slow Shutter Speed and Focus – Since the Point and Shoot cameras are relying entirely on digital display. They are known for slow shutter speed and focusing time.

Shorter Battery Life – The LCD screen usees more power to display information.

DSLR Cameras – Pros & Cons

PROS

Image Quality – Having a big sensor helps decrease noise and increase overall image quality.

Manual Mode – DSLR is generally designed for photographers who want to have the full control of their own settings. The other extra modes, such as auto and scenery, are considered to be bonuses.

Upgradability – The ability to change lenses and flashes opens up possibilities to explore and achieve better image quality. It directly impacts the lens and flashes you use.

Faster Shutter Speed and Focus – The advantage of the good old single lens-reflex is no shutter lagging or slow focusing.

Better Battery Life – In general, the optical viewfinder uses less power.

CONS

Weight & Size – DSLRs are quite heavy. The become even heavier when you add a lens or two to your camera bag.

Maintenance – Every time you change lenses, you risk introducing dust on your camera. The cost for sensor cleaning is not cheap since it needs to be done professionally. Some newer models come with self-cleaning sensors.

Complexity – The DSLR cameras are somewhat complicated. They require some learning and can be frustrated in the beginning.

Price – Price is probably the main factor for most beginners. Even an entry-level DSLR will most likely cost more than an advanced Point and Shootcamera. Then there is the cost of the extra accessories such as lens, filters, flashes, and so on.

* Please note! These are not the full list of the PROS and CONS. You can probably find more information online or by experiencing it yourself.

What should you get as your first camera?

So Point and Shoot or DSLR? This is when I turn the question back to you. You will need to find out for yourself. Depending on your budget, usage, and situation, the scenarios below may help you make the right decision.

You should consider getting a Point and Shoot camera, if…

– you travel a lot and want something thats easy to take with you.
– you take general and landscape photos most of the time.
– you have a small budget and really want to get into photography.
– you don’t care much about the image size or print.

You should consider getting a DSLR camera, if…

– you don’t have a budget issue.
– you take both portrait and low-light landscape photo.
– you take lots of action shots such as sports, activities, and motions.
– you don’t mind carrying your camera kit bags with you.

Personally, I would recommend having both. I own a few Panasonic Lumix ZS series because they are thin, compact, and have very nice lens. I have many great shots with these Panasonics. I can not tell you how many times I grab my Point and Shoot camera and run because of an opportunity. If I have time to plan ahead, most likely I will grab both my DSLR and P&S.

If you are concerned about the depth of field on the Point and Shoot, there are a few tricks that I used to achieve that bokeh look (shallow depth of field or blurry background.) I might write about this in the near future.)

Here are samples of photos I took with my Point and Shoot Panasonic DMC-ZS40 vs my entry-level Canon EOS Rebel T5.

At the end, whichever you ended up choosing, please remember to have fun, explore, and learn as many new skills as you go. You are the one telling your story. You are the one who captures the memories. You decide how the story is told.

Until next time, happy shooting!

Read my previous posts at www.midnightspidy.com

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Personally, I consider the composition as a set of rules. Every time I look through my camera’s viewfinder, I think of how other people will see the photo that I am about to capture. The modern digital cameras make a photographer’s life a lot easier. We can see the photo we’ve just taken right away. There is no need to wait hours or days for film processing and developing like it used to be 20 years ago. So go ahead and take as many photos as you need in order to get the right shot.

As always please know that I don’t claim to be an expert. I am here to share my own journey in the digital photography world with you.

Here are the techniques that will instantly improve your basic photography composition skills.

1. Rule of Thirds

   I consider the Rule of Third more like a guideline or “Rule of Thumb.” Imagine your photo divided into nine equal parts or a nine-grid. You then simply try placing your focused subject on any of the line intersections. This technique helps create tension and interest in the focused subject. It also allows the viewer to explore your photo freely yet still paying attention to the subject. Most DLSR or Point & Shoot cameras now have this feature built-in. It’s right on your LCD screen and inside your viewfinder.

   

2. Framing

   This technique helps set the boundary of the elements. It helps separate the main subject from the surrounding area. You can use, doorframes, trees, light poles, windows, as your natural frames by simply placing them on the edge of your photo creating frame. Keep in mind that a frame does not need to be a square frame. It can be any type of shapes.

   

   

3. Leading Lines

   It’s pretty straightforward and self-explanatory. The human’s eye is naturally drawn to lines and symmetrical objects. By placing your focused subject on or near where the lines ended. You can use railroad track, stairs and another shape that can guide the eye through an image.

   

4. Balancing Elements

   Also while applying the Rule of Third,  think of balancing the elements. If the location and environment allow, you should balance your composition. Place a secondary or lesser importance element to fill the empty space.

   

5. Depth of Field

   This is probably the oldest trick in my book. Simply focusing on the main area and blurring out the rest of the image. You can achieve this goal by simply moving closer to the main subject. Use your zooming lens, and use a wider aperture. It makes for a wonderful shot.

   

6. View Point

   I find this technique the most unique of all. Why? It’s because by simply looking at the subject from a different angle or view, it can instantly change the meaning of your photo. These view points include close-up, top view, side view, back view, far away, and so on.

   

   

   There are more techniques waiting for you to discover, explore and experiment with.

   The next technique is your own to discover. No one knows your story better than you. You choose what story to tell and how the story is told. Like I mentioned earlier, take advantage of the digital age, you can never take too many photos and run out of shots. If you don’t like how the photo turned out, delete it. Take lots of photos and try difference things.

   

Please remember that the photography composition is really not rocket science. The rules in the composition are meant to be broken. Some rules may work in one photo and some may not. Find what works best for you and explore it further. After all remember to have fun!

If this your first time here, please visit my other posts at www.midnightspidy.com.

happy shooting.

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The Camera Modes

Okay! Let’s continue on the Camera Modes! If you look closely at the mode dial, you will notice that there are 2 groups of symbols.  The first group with the letters, M, Av/A, Tv/S, and P, is called the Advanced Modes. The second group, with a bunch of icons, is called the Basic Modes. Let’s look at the difference.

First of all, please know that I don’t claim to be an expert. I am here to share my own journey in the digital photography world with you.

The Advance Modes

Depending on which mode you’ve chosen they give you more control over your camera.

M – Manual
This mode allows you to manually set the Aperture, Shutter Speed, and ISO.

Av or A – Aperture Priority
This mode allows you to manually set the aperture value, and the camera will automatically adjust the correct shutter speed.

Tv or S – Shutter Priority
This mode allows you to manually set the shutter speed, and the camera will automatically adjust the correct aperture.

P – Program
This mode is somewhat similar to Auto mode. The shutter and aperture settings are determined by the camera. I found this is one of the best modes of general shooting

The Basic Modes

These modes are pre-programmed settings for easy access. In short, the camera has control of everything from shutter speed, aperture, ISO, and more. The only thing left for you to do is to point and shoot.

These modes can be very useful though when you are unsure of how to capture a specific type of picture. The basic common modes are auto(Ai), portrait, landscape, sport, night, close-up, and more depending on your camera. Each mode does exactly what it says.

You will need to explore each basic mode to get a better understanding. Auto mode is a very good start for all beginners. I personally learned a lot from the Auto mode by simply looking at the playback photos and studying the exposure settings. They embed in each shot to see exactly what the camera was doing. Then I tried to mimic the similar settings in the Manual mode.

So which camera mode should you use?

Well, it depends on the situation and condition you are in. The Basic Modes are great when you are in rush and just don’t have much time to set your camera. Try each mode and see which works best for you.

Av/A – Aperture mode – I find myself shooting in this mode when shooting portraits. I want to get that depth of field look that this mode offers.

Tv/S – Shutter priority mode – I use this mode when I’m trying to capture photos with any type of motions or actions.

P- Program mode – I often use this mode for general shooting.  It allows me to tweak exposure settings on the fly.

When in doubt, you can use the Auto mode.  It’s a lot easier when first starting out. You can always go look at the playback image and learn from it.

If you want to learn more from the pro, I highly recommend this book, Tony Northrup’s DSLR Book: How to Create Stunning Digital Photography.

I hope that you find this article helpful. I know it’s a lot of information to digest. Don’t be discouraged. Try everything. Learn from every mistake. The most important part is to have fun. Find your own style and happy shooting.

If this your first time here, please visit my other posts at www.midnightspidy.com.

Cheers,

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Configure your new DSLR

I remember when I bought my first DSLR (Digital Single-Lens Reflex.)  I was super excited but intimidated at the same time. With all these new buttons, dials, and LCD screen, I found myself saying, “Now what? Where do I go from here?” I felt lost!

As a beginner configuring your 1st DSLR can be overwhelming. I stuck to the basic principals and choose my settings based on something like these situations:

– The speed of my subject
– The environment that my subject is in
– The lighting depending on the time of day

Next, I determine my priority.

When I want to capture a moment of a moving subject, I will need to freeze it. In order to do so, I need to set the shutter speed first. Next, I set the ISO. Then, I set the aperture.

When I want to capture a subject in very low light condition, I will set my ISO first. Next, I set the shutter speed. Then,  I set the aperture.

Understanding basic fundamentals

Since we are talking about beginning photography, I think the basic fundamentals is to understand the Exposure Triangle. The exposure triangle is the basic relationship between 3 elements: Shutter Speed, Aperture, and ISO. The goal is to get all three elements working together so you get the results you desire.

1. Shutter Speed

Shutter Speed is the length of time the shutter is open. The longer the shutter stays open the more light gets through. In short, the shutter speed controls how slow or fast the camera records the picture. This allows us to blur or freeze any motion while shooting a picture. The shutter speed typically measures in fractions of a second.

For example, 1/4 means a quarter of a second. 1/500 means one five-hundredth of a second. A lower number will blur the picture, a higher number will freeze the picture.

2. Aperture

Aperture is the size of the opening of the lens. The bigger the opening, the more light it lets in. The aperture size plays a part in controlling the depth of field. The wider the aperture the more depth of field. The aperture measured as an f-number or an f-stop. The smaller the number makes a  bigger opening size.

For example, f/4 lets more light in than f/22.

3. ISO

ISO is an abbreviation for International Standards Organization. It’s a standard way to measure light sensitivity. In the olden days, it’s was used to measure how sensitive camera film was to light. However, today it’s used to measure the sensitivity of a digital sensor inside a camera.

The lower ISO the less sensitive to light. The higher ISO the more noise added to the picture.

For example, ISO 100 is best used on a sunny day. ISO 400 is best used indoor with low light.

Now that we know what each element does. Let’s take a look at real-life examples.

Shutter Speed – blurs/freezes the subject

*I used my living room ceiling fan with the slowest speed.

Aperture – controls the depth of field

*Notice the background.

ISO – controls light sensitivity

*Noticing the noise in each picture.

Which DSLR camera to buy?

This is a personal thing that you need find out. So many to choose from such as; Nikon, Canon, Pentax, and etc. I am a Canon kinda guy, so of course, I will recommend a Canon If you are on a tight budget, you still can get your hands on a nice and cheap DSLR without losing arms and legs.

Conclusion Beginning Photography

My concluding post regarding Beginning Photography. I hope that the samples above will help you have a better understanding of how the exposure triangles work. From here on, you should be able to apply these basic principals to your next shot.

On my next post, I will be talking about Camera Modes. Remember to come back and check out my site. I’ll see you soon.

If this your first time here, please visit my other posts at www.midnightspidy.com.

Happy Shooting

PS. You might want to check out these entry-level cameras.

Canon EOS Rebel T6 DSLR Camera Kit
With EF-S 18-55mm IS II Lens, EF 75-300mm III Lens, Polaroid Wide Angle, Telephoto Lens, 64GB and Accessory Bundle

Nikon D3400
With AF-P DX NIKKOR 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR Lens, 32 GB SDHC and Basic Bundle

Pentax K-70 All Weather Wi-Fi Digital SLR Camera
With DA 18-55mm AL WR Lens with 64GB Card + Backpack + Flash + Diffuser + Battery + Tripod + Filters Kit

Panasonic Lumix ZS50 Camera
With 30X LEICA DC Vario-ELMAR Lens, 12.1 Megapixels, High Sensitivity Sensor, Eye Viewfinder, DMC-ZS50S (USA SILVER)

The post Beginning Photography – So I bought a DSLR, now what??? appeared first on Midnight Spidy.